Oof.

I hate winter, but it’s one redeeming quality is if I am feeling lazy or accidentally leave cold food in the car after a grocery trip, it’s no big deal.

CD-3000

Oh, you’re working on this too?

It’s been on my backburner for a while, so if there’s anything I can do to help, lemme know. My goal is to transition my instance to Piefed and port over Tesseract rather than go to Lemmy 1.0 so yeah, I’m willing to help however.

The one I bought ~8 years ago for my old house is what I’d love to find new. Everything’s mechanical on it (temp, ice/water/crushed ice selections, lighting, etc) and it “just works”.

Wish I’d have brought it with me when I moved, but the one that came with this house was only 2 years old, so figured what the hell.

On the bright side, the replacement board came in today and seems to have fixed the issues. So, at least I’m only out $80 for that.

I bought one of these from my local hardware store last year, and it’s been great. Amazon Link for Example

The instructions say to place it like 20 feet from where you suspect there’s a hive if you’re dealing with an established nest. You’ll also want it a fair bit away from where people go since it will attract them, and they don’t always go immediately into it and tend to swarm around it.

This spring, I’ve just been moving the trap around every few days to catch the queens. They’re out foraging and starting to build nests, so I rotated through the spots near to where I suspected there were nests last year.

Since I made this post, I’ve caught 3 more. Those 3 were in the same day, and it was after I moved the trap into the tree by the front porch.

Update: Got 2 more today. I was going to move it, but I’ll prob wait until I go 1-2 days with any new captures.

That was my first thought since it matched the behavior.

I took the panel off, extracted the control board, and none of the buttons appeared to be stuck. This was bypassing the button “covers” and just using the PCB buttons on the board itself (basically just hooked the bare board back to the wiring harness to test.

What makes me feel like I wasted $80 is the control board looks pristine. No visual evidence of failure, no apparent moisture damage/corrosion, etc. Still hoping that’s where the problem is because I can’t return the replacement board (unless it’s defective itself) and I haven’t the foggiest idea of how to replace the main control board (assuming I can find one). Even then, that may not be the issue (could be a dodgy wire between the panel and the main board, for example).

From what I’ve read, even Samsung repair techs basically just throw parts at it until it’s fixed or they replace it under warranty or tell you you’re out of luck. (Mine’s out of warranty)

I’ve had it on a UPS for several months because of exactly that. My power’s pretty stable, but when it’s about to go out in a storm/winds, it goes full poltergeist for 2-3 seconds, flashes rapidly, and then either goes out completely or back to normal.

Granted, it raw-dogged power for its whole life until then, so it could have had accumulated damage.

Yep. Last summer was super dry (my poor lawn lol), and had way more yellow yackets than I can ever recall. If this summer is dry, too, hoping my preventative actions will help.